CLIMBING ROUTES

Lenin peak: climbing routes Over the entire history of ascents to Lenin Peak, more than 15 routes have been laid. For the most part, they differ only in the ways of reaching the main ridge. The exception is routes made almost vertically (water flow lines). The most popular route for mountain climbers is from the Lenin Glacier through the top of Razdelnaya Mountain (6148 m). Usually, intermediate camps are set up to reach the peak: 1 - on the moraine of the glacier at an altitude of 4400 meters, 2 - 5300 meters, 3 - 6100 meters, 4 - 6400 meters (practically not used). As a rule, climbing takes 15-20 days, including porches and acclimatization.

The most favorable time period for climbing is the month of August. Lenin Peak is, on the one hand, the most accessible seven-thousandth, since the road approaches almost the foot of the mountain. The nature of the ascent along the standard path (through the top of Razdelnaya Mountain) does not require the use of sophisticated techniques. But, on the other hand, low temperatures, rarefied air, insufficient physical preparation did not allow many climbers to climb to the top. And the memorial tablets on a small rock in the edelweiss glade remind of the tragedies that took place on the slopes of this peak. According to statistics, about 10% of climbers who attempted to climb Lenin Peak reach the summit.

Climbing route to Lenin PeakSite 1. Base Camp "Onion Glade" (3800 m) - Camp 1 "Glacier of Lenin."

TRANSITIONS:

Base Camp - Travelers Pass (4128 m). Nice mountain trail. Rise time: 1-2.5 hours. Snow is possible at the pass. Pass - the left moraine of the Lenin Glacier. Mountain trail on a steep scree slope. Possible landslide disruptions of parts of the trail, falling stones from steep talus slopes. Travel time before crossing the river is 1-2 hours. The best time to go through it is before 10 in the morning or after 18 hours. Crossing the stones. In the afternoon there is a sharp increase in the volume of water. At this time, only fording or riding. The left glacier moraine - access to the body of the Lenin Glacier (4100 m). Driving time on a moraine cover: 1-1.5 hours. On open ice to Camp 1 (4400 m). Driving time: from 1.5 to 2.5 hours. Section 2. Camp 1 “Lenin Glacier” (4400 m) - Camp 2 (5300 m). The preferred exit in the early morning, at 6-7 in the morning.

TRANSITIONS:

On the Lenin Glacier to the start of take-off. Time: 1-2 hours. A large number of narrow cracks. With snowy glacier movement in bundles. Climbing along a steep snow-ice slope between two icefalls straight up. In one of the sections, climbing a fixed rope (H = 100 m, steepness 40-45 °). After takeoff, the slope is flat. Wide cracks are found. Perhaps the use of duralumin ladders and fixed ropes to overcome them. Total driving time in this section: 2-3 hours. Exit to a height of 5100 m. Traverse the slope to the right with access to a plateau ("pan") to the site of Camp 2. There are large cracks. Camp 2 is located on the scree slope of the peak of 30 years of the Uzbek SSR (5688 m). Driving time: 1-2 hours. Throughout section 2, movement in bundles. The path from L1 to L2 can be an avalanche hazard, many closed cracks. Section 3. Camp 2 (5300 m) - Camp 3 (Razdelnaya, 6100 m). It is preferable to leave before 8:00 in the morning.

TRANSITIONS:

From Camp 2 to the ridge. Steep takeoff on the slope of the peak of 30 years of the Uzbek SSR. There is a strong wind on the crest. Rise time: from 1 to 2.5 hours. Movement along the ridge to take off to the peak of Razdelnaya (6148 m). Strong wind, deep snow, trail path. Crest travel time: 2 to 4 hours. Camp 3 is located above the saddle (6100 m) under the peak of Razdelnaya. Often a strong wind, especially at night. Chance of a hurricane. Site 4. Camp 3 (Razdelnaya city) - the peak of Lenin peak (7134 m). An early exit at 6-7 a.m. is recommended.

TRANSITIONS:

Descent to the saddle (6100 m), then a steep take-off in the snow and rocky slope at 6400 m. Ascent time: from 1.5 to 3 hours. On the broad shoulder before take-off, called the “knife”. The movement is free. The Knife is a 200-meter narrow, steep snow-ice ridge (the most dangerous place in this area). Driving time: from 1.5 to 3 hours. Watch out for strong gusts of wind. The final stretch. Movement on steep cliffs on the ridge. Exit to the summit plateau (6900-7000 m). Snow makes crossings difficult. An extended summit dome begins on the plateau. The path to the peak is along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the vertex dome. Total travel time on the final stretch to the top: from 2 to 3.5 hours. In bad weather, orientation may be difficult. Descent from the top is carried out along the ascent path. The descent time is 2-3 times faster than the rise time. The indicated travel time in all sections is arbitrary and depends on the weight of the backpack and the preparedness of the participant.

Lenin Peak: Tourism The Zaalai ridge has many peaks more than 6,000 meters high, which are of interest to both experienced and beginner climbers. Like Lenin Peak, they are distinguished, first of all, by easy transport accessibility. For expeditions in the area of the large glaciers of Korzhenevsky, Koman, the most interesting are the peaks: Kyzyl-Agyn (6683 m), Latvia and Estonia (6211 m and 6282 m), Unity (6673 m), Spartak (6183 m), Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) , Krasina (5998 m). There are all the possibilities for mountain trekking. The Alai Valley itself is interesting for tourists. Sandwiched between the Alai and Zaalai ranges, it stretches 135 kilometers with a width of 8 to 22 kilometers. The average height of the valley is about 3000 meters. In the Alai Valley, an unpretentious lifestyle and traditions of nomads are still preserved. Tourists can visit the shepherd’s yurt, drink tea, try ayran with tortillas, talk about life. In the foothills and gorges of the Alai Valley, you can find huge Pamir yaks.

Attention! Climbing Lenin Peak belongs to the category of extreme sports! Each participant is fully responsible for his decision to participate in the ascent program and is fully responsible for all his actions and the possible consequences of participating in this extreme expedition to Lenin Peak. The Lenin Peak climbing program is also recommended as an acclimatization program for climbers planning expeditions to the Himalayas and Tibet.