LEAN PEAK

Lenin Peak (7134 m) is one of the highest in the Pamirs, located in the central part of the Zaalai Range and administratively belongs to the Chon-Alai District of the Osh Region of Kyrgyzstan. Lenin Peak is a huge massif consisting of ice and snow and stretching from the Krylenko pass (5820 m) in the east to the peak of Razdelnaya (6148 m) in the west. Many glaciers flow from the northern and southern slopes of Lenin Peak. The largest of them: Lenin (13.5 km long) and Big Saukdara (20.6 km)All the glaciers of the northern slope of Lenin Peak feed the basin of the Kyzyl-Suu River - the main river of the Alai Valley. The Lenin Peak massif rises above the circus of the Lenin Glacier by more than 3,000 meters. The northern and southern slopes reach a steepness of 45-55 ° and are cut by deep (up to 100 m) cracks. Avalanches and ice falls are a frequent occurrence on the slopes of Lenin Peak. The height of the snow line on the northern slopes is 4200-4500 meters, on the southern - 4800-5400 meters.

The climatic characteristics of the region are local and sharply continental. Summer lasting from June to August is short and cold. Daily temperature fluctuations are very high. Even in the warmest season, it can vary from + 50 ° C during the day to -30 ° C at night. The prevailing winds are mainly south-west and south and usually weaken at night, and sometimes completely subside. But during the day, especially at high altitudes, strong squally winds with snow are not uncommon. Sometimes from the east from the Takla-Makan desert or from the west from Afghanistan, a dense haze penetrates into the Alai Valley in the form of dry fog - products of sandstorms. Such a haze greatly reduces visibility and impedes visual communication. Often observed in clear weather, the snowy flag above the top of Lenin Peak, which looks so harmless from below, testifies to the fierce storm that rages above. Climbers should take into account the possibility of frostbite increasing with height and wind strength, a partial loss of working capacity due to oxygen deficiency, especially noticeable above 6500 meters; be able to organize a safe and comfortable bivouac in any environment, including a snow cave; maintain the necessary reserve of forces and means. You need to get acquainted with local signs of weather changes. Without preliminary acclimatization and exploratory exits, the success of the ascent can only be accidental. Best time to climb: July - August.